Its a blog to help Fiatians with innovative ideas to solve car problems and to share technical informations of fiats, Any member can share their useful ideas with others
|Posted by FCB on February 28, 2010 at 10:54 PM||comments (8)|
How Do We over Come Heating Issues? this Question has Come up Many times still the solution is not found.
How ever we Drive, even if we drive at 6000RPM continiously, engine shouldnt heat up for more than 1000kms,
Please answer if any one knows the solution
|Posted by FCB on January 29, 2010 at 7:28 AM||comments (4)|
Technical Info of various Important Components: (Source:-www.Team-Bhp.com)
The Most Important Thing Is Valve Timing. First Of All, You Need To Know Whether The Camshaft Lobes Are Still Having Full Lift. If No, Then Whatever You Do Will Not Work. The "chaal" Of An Untuned Engine Will Tell You Whether The Cam Is Ok And The Engine Is Tuneable. I Can State Here With Full Confidence That I Have Yet To Come Across A Single Mechanic Who Knows The "exact Procedure" To Set Valve Timing (in Common Jargon - Replacing The Timing Chain). Once This Is Done As It Should Be Done (the Process Is Quite Long So I Will Send It Across To Karlosdeville And Request Him To Put It Across To You All), The Next Thing To Tackle Is The Much Maligned Distributor.
I Have Yet To Come Across A Single Mechanic Who "does Not Put Grease" In The Distributor. It Is Common Sense. The Centrifugal Advance Can Only Work If The Weights Fly Apart. How Will The Weights Ever Fly If They Are Constrained By Grease ? Then Everybody Blames The Car. A "greased" Distributor Takes Around 4 Hours To Clean. I Have The Patience To Do All This. Once Done, The Dwell Angle Is 60 Degrees, The Ignition Timing Is 10 Degrees Btdc For Non-s1 Engines And 7 Degrees Btdc For S1 Engines, But You Need To Be Clear What The Timing Mark On The Pulley Indicates. There Are 3 Types Of Pulleys, So Be Careful. If There Is Only One Mark, It Is Tdc. If There Are 4 Marks, The Single Mark Is Tdc And The Other Three Marks Are 8 Degrees, 10 Degrees And 12 Degrees Btdc For Non-s1 Cars And 5 Degrees, 7 Degrees And 9 Degrees Btdc For S1 Cars. The Next In Line Is The Carburettor.
The Best Carburettor Is The Solex Mcs1061. This Has An Internal Vent, Has An Econostat And Comes With A 97.5 Size Main Jet But For Optimum Performance without Deterioration Of Fuel Economy, You Need To Use A 102 Size Main Jet, Otherwise Do Not Disturb Any Other Part, Especially The Emulsion Tube. The Idling Speed Must Be Set To 720 +/- 20 Rpm. Vacuum Should Me More Than 480 Mm Of Hg Measured In The Intake Manifold.
I Have Yet Come Across A Mechanic Who Has Correct Tappet Guages. The Specification Is 0.1 Mm In Dead Cold Condition. You Can Try This. If You Set To 0.1 Mm In Dead Cold Condition, You Will Get 0.35 Mm In Hot Condition, Which Will Cause A Good Amount Of Mechanical Clatter. The Process Is To Set The Tappets In A Hot Engine With The Engine Idling And Set It To 0.2 Mm (8 Thou) Intake And 0.25 Mm (10 Thou) Exhaust Valves. From The Fan Backwards, The Valves Are E-i-i-e-e-i-i-e.
The Clutch -
Use A Good Msl Make Clutch With Original Actuating Links. There Should Be No Undue Clearence In The Links. Free Play Is Around 15 To 19 Mm.
Most Important - Use Original Spider Assemblies Only - Nothing Else Will Work. Use New Control Arms And Thread The Spiders Without Any Clearence. Then Set The Camber To Zero And Caster To +2 Degrees Without Load (the Original Spec Is With Load But The Alternate Without Load Gives A Fairly Accurate Result).
Use Production 3.5j*14 Wheels. The Offset Is +31 Mm. There Were Some 4j Wheels Released In 1994 Cars And If You Can Lay Your Hands On Those, So Much The Better. Do Not Use 118ne Wheels. The Offset Is 37 Mm So The Track Will Reduce By 12 Mm. Set The Tyre Pressure To 25/27 Psi Front/back In Dead Cold Condition.
Set The Steering Gear Clearence To Just Zero. Use 220 Cc Of Sae140 Oil In The Steering Gearbox.